Cinderella Rockefeller 

Time to rekindle something else – that old driving on the right thing. 

We fuelled ourselves with the Amelindo’s continental buffet (I hope you read that with the voice of Hyacinth Bucket), though we were restrained and well mannered and did not stuff our pockets with ham and cheese as we left. Bussed it back the airport and followed the slightly hard to follow trail to the Europcar desk. Rejected their upgrade offers and made for the carpark and our blue Fiat Panda. Now with the GPS from Australia, you need to find somewhere with a view of the sky for the little Garmin to find its satellites – not an easy task in the highly regulated airport roadways but an absolute necessity to find your way out of the airport maze.

Eventually we just stopped at a tiny siding long enough for the Garmin to do its thing and for us to program it to lead us to Calitri. We were soon on the autostrada and heading south, managing to stay out of the way of the fast cars and the slow trucks and making our first stop at an Autogrill for coffee. It took about 5 hours and 23 euros in tolls to make Calitri after traversing country with groves of giant wind turbines. 

Roadhouse coffee - Italian style

Roadhouse coffee – Italian style

We met our contact, Emma, in the Piazza della Replublica and lugged our bags about 500m to the Casa de Feritoia, our digs for the next couple of weeks. Superb views and a cute little house. The main bedroom is particularly nice. Right now we’re waiting for the electrician to come and look at the heater in the main room and the internet (and the television). Then we’ll head out into the chilly darkness to find a restaurant. It’s market day tomorrow. 

Our little Panda in the Piazza

UPDATE: The restaurant we found was a keeper. La Gatta di Cenerentola (Cinderella Cat for those playing at home) a ten minute walk from our place and a twenty minute walk back – that’s a downhill / uphill thing – and our first experience with a restaurant with no menu. It’s a gorgeous little place with two small rooms (one in a cave at the back) and slick modern decor in a restored ancient building. We plunged in, prepared to take the unknown prices on the chin. Pip asked for local food and Antonella, told us her Aunty would just bring us the food. We were offered two primas and opted for Canozza in a vealy, red sauce cooked for 5 hours we were assured. While we waited for that, some savoury pastries appeared (for a second) and some of the local bread – they’re known for a wholemeal style. We also went local with the wine – Aglianico del Vulture, a robust red.

The cave out the back …

The canozza was perfect, and far too much for a prima. Involtini came next with potatoes in a chilli oil, eggplant, capsicum and zucchini. It was all we could do to share a Tira Mi Su, which was so amazingly good and more like a coffee zabaglione. We held our joint breath as we asked for the bill (our guess was that it would hit the 75 euros). Imagine our surprise at 39!

We rugged up and headed out into the borgo, light rain which turned to snow flurries falling. 

OTHER UPDATE: Turns out the radiator needs a part from the plumber and the internet needs the satellite guy to come. Cut off from the world we are – there’s no mobile data we can access in this area either! Pip’s worried she’s trapped in an episode of Survivor: Campania!



  1. Fair dinkum, I can’t keep up with you blokes. You’re in and out of the country like some bloke in a pork pie hat who does a bit of import/export know what I mean guvna. You know how to beat the infernal antipodean heat in style, I’ll give you that. And I do love it when the tiramisu is more like a coffee zabaglione. Ciao.



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